One of the great things about Dee Why Beach is the natural ampitheartre surrounding the point and the lefts. The shape could be described to a horseshoe facing north which runs across the top of the escarpment providing many unique vantage points and viewing platforms.
As grommets we spent many hours watching the older guys surfing the Lefts. The prefered positions were sitting at the on the steps in front of the "Memo" or on "Crud Hill or on the wall at the pool. However one of the best views was sitting at the "Chair" out the Point.
In the early 70's I used to love sitting out on the rocks at the "Chair". In those days when the bank was good and the swell was around the 6 foot mark the Lefts would break nearly in line with the the point, in real terms it would break in-line with what we know as second section out the point, from this position you had unique view of being able to watch both the Point and the Lefts at the same time. The big difference was that you were sitting virtually at water level which meant that you could look side on into the wave face. Being able to watch as each wave hit the bank and see the actual shape of the walls, for a surf stoked grommet it was learning at it's best.
So to set it up for you, there were two elements, No1 was, between the point and the left bank was a deep hole, this hole not only provided a peak it also stopped the waves from closing out. No2; was the "rip" my old friend the "rip". Like most sand bank breaks the rip is what shapes and defined the bank, the high volume of water running out in the "rip" would often make the wave draw and turn on it self. The "take off" out the front was quite steep providing an exciting drop the speed you got from the drop provided plenty of room for delayed bottom turns followed by big reo's, then the wave face would fatten out, which was perfect for cutbacks and a bit of foam bouncing. After that it would start walling again and run into the tubey inside section towards the basin. It was in this last section of the wave that you would quite often get a double up as the section would barrel before finally joining up in the "Basin" and hitting the shore.
Who used to "rip" out there, I hear youy say. There was heaps of good surfers throughout the late 60's early 70's some of them were (in no particular order).
|Ken Sasse||Jim Sasse||John (Ogar) Connors|
|Col (Luigi) Gow||Warwick Taylor||Russell Lewis|
|Brian "Runna" Langbien||Kev (Kiva) Cone||Greg Dunford|
|Simon Preece||John (Hot Dog) Harris||Barry King|
|Paul Peters||Laurie McGuinness||Boyd Kellner|
|Mark (Woolly) Langbien||John (Ox)Williams||Brad Fancis|
|Col Steell||Mick Durant||Peter Cooper|
|Ross Smiles||John Leech||Bruce "Lizard" Collins|
|Jim Beardsley||Ken Scrivens||Alan "Beanpole" Byrne|