"The Lefts" this photo is from a 1970's edition of Surfing World.  Surfing is Tony Wardwick, paddling out is either Barry King or Paul Connors

The Lefts

Quentin cutting backOne of the great things about Dee Why Beach is the natural ampitheartre surrounding the point and the lefts.  The shape could be described to a horseshoe facing north which runs across the top of the escarpment providing many unique vantage points and viewing platforms.

As grommets we spent many hours watching the older guys surfing the Lefts. The prefered positions were sitting at the on the steps in front of the "Memo" or on "Crud Hill or on the wall at the pool.  However one of the best views was sitting at the "Chair" out the Point.

 

Unknown surfer out the front at DYIn the early 70's I used to love sitting out on the rocks at the "Chair". In those days when the bank was good and the swell was around the 6 foot mark the Lefts would break nearly in line with the the point, in real terms it would break in-line with what we know as second section out the point, from this position you had unique view of being able to watch both the Point and the Lefts at the same time. The big difference was that you were sitting virtually at water level which meant that you could look side on into the wave face. Being able to watch as each wave hit the bank and see the actual shape of the walls, for a surf stoked grommet it was learning at it's best.

 

Warrick Taylor out the frontSo to set it up for you, there were two elements, No1 was, between the point and the left bank was a deep hole, this hole not only provided a peak it also stopped the waves from closing out. No2; was the "rip"  my old friend the "rip".  Like most sand bank breaks the rip is what shapes and defined the bank,  the high volume of water running out in the "rip" would often make the wave draw and turn on it self.  The "take off" out the front was quite steep providing an exciting drop the speed you got from the drop provided plenty of room for delayed bottom turns followed by big reo's,  then the wave face would fatten out, which was perfect for cutbacks and a bit of foam bouncing.  After that it would start walling again and run into the tubey inside section towards the basin. It was in this last section of the wave that you would quite often get a double up as the section would barrel before finally joining up in the "Basin" and hitting the shore.

 

Who used to "rip" out there, I hear youy say.  There was heaps of good surfers throughout the late 60's early 70's some of them were (in no particular order).

Ken Sasse Jim Sasse John (Ogar) Connors
Col (Luigi) Gow Warwick Taylor Russell Lewis
Brian "Runna" Langbien Kev (Kiva) Cone Greg Dunford
Simon Preece John (Hot Dog) Harris Barry King
Paul Peters Laurie McGuinness Boyd Kellner
Mark (Woolly) Langbien John (Ox)Williams Brad Fancis
Col Steell Mick Durant Peter Cooper
Ross Smiles John Leech Bruce "Lizard" Collins
Jim Beardsley Ken Scrivens Alan "Beanpole" Byrne